Surviving the land trip

So you want to travel from Dumaguete to Cebu ? There are many ways of doing it. You can drive the distance in about four hours via a roll-on/roll-off vessel, you may take the fastcraft or the relatively slow overnight boat.

But if you're thinking of economy, then come with me. We'll take the “land trip.”

Let me warn you, though—traveling by land trip is usually only for the quick. And there are certain rules, which I have formulated from traveling back and forth almost weekly for a few months now.

The fast boat from Sibulan town, some 6 kilometers from Dumaguete, leaves every hour on the hour from sunrise to sunset. (There's an outrigger boat as well, leaving at 30-minute intervals, but I'll limit my write-up to the experience on the fast boat.) I will be writing about my usual experience on the 5 a.m. trip.

It starts with waking up early in Dumaguete. If someone is driving you to the Sibulan port, get out of bed by 3:45 a.m. If you have some, it is important to take your hypertension pills upon waking up with only a minimum amount of water as your next restroom stop may be a good four hours hence.

You have to be at the Sibulan port by 4:30 a.m. or earlier. Remember that in the Philippines , people go by different times, depending on which radio station they listen to. The boat usually has a schedule which is 5-10 minutes ahead of the international standard time (international what?). The boat ride costs P47.

Ten minutes into the boat ride, stand up and assume your “battle position” near the exit. If no one has started a queue near the exit at that point, stand there and you will see one behind you in a matter of seconds. You will remain standing for another 5 to 10 minutes until the boat arrives the port in Liloan in Santander town, Cebu province.

You will have to jostle your way out of the boat, while keeping your hands firmly attached to your luggage. Use your luggage to block other “competitors” to the gangplank.

Once on tierra firma, RUN to the bus! Don't laugh—everyone else will overtake you if you're slow. This IS a race. Remember that there are only 41 cushioned seats on the airconditioned bus and about ten more monobloc “extension” seats. If you want a cushioned seat, hold your breath and run.

The most sought-after seats are the window seats. This is probably because there are so many disturbances for those sitting by the aisle—from passing passengers and their luggage to acrobatic conductors. The bus fare to Cebu from Liloan on an airconditioned bus is P149.

There are some beautiful sights along the way such as old churches and white-sand beaches which could catch your attention. But If you want to sleep on the bus, bring your inflatable neck pillow, ear plugs (as they always leave the radio on for everyone's “entertainment” and eye shades to block out the rest of the world from your sleep-deprived body (a cap with a visor would do the trick).

You won't be able to sleep all the way to Cebu , though. You'll probably be awakened by shouts of “ampao! ampao! ampao!”. That's a vendor selling some native delicacies of Carcar City . Don't ask me how he got on board the bus.

From the time you hear that screaming ampao vendor, Cebu City (and your restroom stop) is about one hour ahead.

Enjoy your trip!*

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