Missing the Angels

Published by the Visayan Daily Star Publications, Inc.

NINFA R. LEONARDIA Editor-in-Chief & President

CARLA P. GOMEZ Managing Editor ANTONIETA B. LOPEZ Business Editor ODETTE MONTELIBANO Desk Editor MARY ANN BARCELONA Advertising Coordinator RENE GENOVE Bureau Chief, Dumaguete

ANDRES R. LEONARDIA Managing Director

I have not been to Boracay since the fire that hit it about two years ago, and it was a pleasant surprise to see how much it has improved since the last time I went there. I guess there is something to the crude comment some people make when they see a gross red light district, or an unsanitary area used as haven of drug pushers, petty criminals and snatchers, and say "What it needs is a good fire".

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I sympathized when the talipapa, that charming line of stalls in a corner of Boracay's main area, had caught fire, and the traders there had no more place for selling their wares. Today, the former area has not been restored, but the vendors are still everywhere, and there is a "talipapa" again. To my regret, however, I was not able to visit it this time. Anyway, the ambience is still there, but it is obvious that there is more order and cleanliness now.

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There are still the street vendors of pearl, shells, and other kinds of jewelry and trinkets being offered, but those selling keep their places, and leave the street clear. Even the boatmen asked you politely if you want to go island-hopping or banana-boating, or just plain boating, and do not persist if you say no. The very first time I visited the place, I really felt intimidated by those boatmen who would follow you all over the place, urging you, and even haggling down their fares by themselves.

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Vendors, both in the street (yes, there is still only one street through) and in the shops are now very gracious, they don't even frown if you clumsily drop their wares on the ground, or refuse to look at more of their things. Of course there are still the masseuses, women who perform their skills on the supine forms of all races and colors on mats right there on the shore, or even beside main street. And the best thing, for me, is the fact that the road behind Boracay's commercial area, has already been cemented and provides a more steady, if still as inconvenient, tricycle ride as before.

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I was in Boracay very briefly this weekend, to join my brother Nene and his family at the wedding of a family friend. Nene was one of the sponsors, and since the bride was the daughter of his best friend, the late Arthur Tan of Iloilo and Manila, we sort of helped make up the big family on the bride's side. The generous couple had provided all 12 of us with accommodations at the Fairways, one of the biggest and plushiest resorts there, where the reception was also held.

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We enjoyed the luxurious feeling of staying at Fairways which is located high up beyond Station One because the view was magnificent and the landscaping was beautiful. The disadvantage for us sea-lovers, however, was that it is too far from the beaches where everybody goes, and the quaint and colorful shops, now interspersed with several modern ones. To get to the nearest beach, one must get a shuttle that will take you there and, if you call or make arrangements will pick you up later. There is no way you can walk to the shore, because it is a long uphill and downhill climb. Since Boracay means nothing but beaches for me, as well as for the kids with us, using up all our hours on top of a mountain where you see mostly golf courses all around, was not our idea of a Boracay binge.

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The next day, we sneaked out of Fairways and went off to the Boracay Terraces where we had stayed on a previous visit, and which has a marvelous beach as well. Unanimously we agreed that Fairways was not our spot for a memorable stay, so we never went back, and proceeded to Station 3 where, fortunately, we were able to get three nice rooms in a place which was just across the street to the sea. And where we jostled with all kinds, sizes, and colors of people, because, at the time, we were told, there were about 90 percent foreign visitors and only ten percent Pinoys, with us among the latter. The place was really bustling with humanity, you could see all kinds of bodies, male and female, exposed to the max. And the best, there were so many good eating places, one felt like having dinner three times. I noticed, too, that the Koreans seemed to outnumber the Asian tourists.

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But one thing I missed while traveling from Bacolod was the Sea Angel boats that have been replaced by other crafts. None of them, I note, care as much as the NN did about facilities and amenities. A pity, because there are now so many of them plying our sea. Is there competition among them at all?*